Chogolisa Exp(7668M)

Chogolisa Expedition 

The Chogolisa Expedition is a challenging and thrilling mountaineering adventure to one of the most striking peaks in the Karakoram Range, located in the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. Chogolisa (7,668 meters), also known as Bride Peak, is famous for its beauty and technical difficulty, offering a perfect blend of scenic grandeur and mountaineering challenges. The mountain is part of the Baltoro Glacier area, home to some of the most iconic peaks in the world, including K2 and Broad Peak.

Chogolisa features a massive snow-covered ridge with two main summits: Chogolisa I (7,668 meters) and Chogolisa II (7,654 meters). The climb is known for its steep snow slopes, sharp ridges, and massive cornices, making it a highly technical ascent that demands experience and skill.

Itinerary

Day 01 Arrival Islamabad International Airport 

Day 02 Fly To Skardu Via PK451 Or  Drive From Islamabad - Chilas ( Flight Subject To Weather Condition) 

Day 03 Skardu Sightseeing or Drive from Chilas to Skardu 

Day 04 Drive from Skardu to Askoli 

Day 05 Trek from  Askoli to Jhola Camp 

Day 06 Trek from Jhola to Paiyu Camp 

Day 07 Trek from Paiyu to Urdukas Camp 

Day 08 Acclimatization day at Urdukas

Day 09 Trek from Urdukas to Goro II Camp 

Day 10 Trek from Goro II to Concordia Camp 

Day 11 Trek from Concordia to Chogolisa Base Camp 

Day 12-38 Climbing Days 

Day 39-42 Trek Back from Chogolisa BC to Askoli 

Day 43 Fly To Islamabad /Drive to Chilas              

Day 44 Drive from Chilas to Islamabad 

Day 45 Transfer to Islamabad airport for International flight.

Key Features and Highlights

1. Location and Accessibility:

• Chogolisa is located in the Concordia region of the Karakoram Range, near Baltoro Glacier, one of the largest and most famous glaciers in the world.

• The starting point of the expedition is Skardu, which is accessible via a short flight from Islamabad or by road, followed by a multi-day trek along the Baltoro Glacier to the mountain’s base camp.

2. Trek to Base Camp:

• The journey to Chogolisa Base Camp (located around 5,000 meters) is an adventure in itself, taking you along the Baltoro Glacier to Concordia, often referred to as the "throne room of the gods" due to the stunning views of four 8,000-meter peaks (K2, Broad Peak, Gasherbrum I, and Gasherbrum II).

• The trek passes through iconic landmarks such as Paiju, Urdukas, and Goro, offering breathtaking scenery of towering peaks and vast glaciers.

3. Expedition Duration:

• The Chogolisa Expedition typically takes 30 to 40 days, including time for acclimatization, establishing high camps, and weather delays.

• The journey to base camp alone takes around 7-9 days, and the climbing phase can range from 15 to 20 days, depending on weather conditions and team readiness.

4. Climbing Route and Camps:

• The South-East Ridge is the most common route taken by climbers, which is both steep and technical. This route demands proficiency in climbing on snow and ice, as well as the ability to navigate large cornices and crevasses.

• The ascent usually involves establishing multiple high camps:

  • Camp 1 at around 6,000 meters: Reached after a steep climb over snow and ice.

  • Camp 2 at 6,700 meters: Positioned below the summit ridge, this camp involves climbing on snowfields and navigating dangerous crevasses.

  • Camp 3 may be established just below the summit ridge if needed for summit attempts.

• Climbers must be prepared for significant altitude gain and extended periods on the mountain, often facing unpredictable weather conditions, including high winds and snowstorms.

5. Summit Push:

• The summit day involves crossing sharp, narrow ridges and climbing steep, icy slopes. The summit push can be extremely demanding due to the high altitude and technical challenges posed by the mountain’s exposed and windy ridges.

• From the summit of Chogolisa I, climbers are rewarded with jaw-dropping views of nearby giants like K2, Masherbrum, and the entire Baltoro Glacier region.

6. Challenges and Technical Difficulty:

• Chogolisa is considered a technically difficult peak, involving crevasse-riddled glaciers, ice walls, and dangerous snow cornices. The biggest challenges include:

  • Steep snow slopes and glacier crossings.

  • Navigating through heavily crevassed areas.

  • Weather unpredictability: High winds and snowstorms can be frequent, delaying summit attempts.

  • Altitude: The climb demands good acclimatization to prevent altitude sickness.

• The mountain is ideal for experienced climbers with prior high-altitude and technical climbing experience.

7. Best Time to Climb:

• The best time to attempt the Chogolisa Expedition is from June to August, when the weather is relatively stable, and snow conditions are more favorable. However, the weather can still be unpredictable, with sudden storms and high winds.

• Post-monsoon climbs (late August to September) may offer clearer skies, though colder temperatures and more snow may increase difficulty.

History and Notable Ascents

• First Attempt (1909): The first known attempt to climb Chogolisa was made by Duke of Abruzzi’s expedition in 1909. Although the team reached a height of 7,498 meters, they had to turn back due to bad weather.

• First Ascent (1958): Chogolisa was first successfully climbed in 1958 by an Austrian team, including Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger. Unfortunately, Buhl tragically died during this expedition, falling through a cornice on the way down.

• Subsequent Ascents: Since its first ascent, Chogolisa has seen few successful summits due to the technical nature of the climb and the unpredictable weather in the Karakoram region.

Scenic Beauty and Photography

The Chogolisa expedition offers some of the most breathtaking views in the world, with the surrounding peaks of the Karakoram Range creating an awe-inspiring backdrop. The journey to the base camp along the Baltoro Glacier is itself a visual feast, passing through towering granite peaks, glacial rivers, and vast snowfields. The serene beauty of Concordia and the towering presence of K2 and other 8,000-meter peaks make this trek one of the most photogenic in the world.

At the higher camps, the views are nothing short of spectacular. From the summit ridge of Chogolisa, the endless snow-covered mountains and glaciers of the Karakoram unfold, offering incredible photographic opportunities for both landscape and adventure photographers.